Garage Gym Part 2 - Bars & Plates

In Part 1 of this series, we looked at an overview of how I built my garage gym. I built my gym with three major factors in mind. In descending order of importance they are price, quality and space. I have limited resources and limited space, and I want my equipment to last a long, long time. Now we'll take a look at the two most important parts of the gym; the bars and the plates.

BARBELLS

First of all, this is not the place to save money in your gym. Let me say that again. This is not the place to cheap out. The barbell is the most versatile, most useful piece of strength training equipment you can buy. A good, quality barbell will last a lifetime with minimum maintenance. A cheap one will rust, bend, or the collars will stop spinning smoothly. Save money elsewhere.

How versatile is a barbell? Here's a non-exhaustive list of exercises one can perform with a standard barbell. Back squats, front squats, overhead squats, snatches, power snatches, muscle snatches, cleans, power cleans, muscle cleans, clean and jerks, push jerks, push presses, overhead presses, bench presses, thrusters, deadlifts, Romanian deadlifts, curls, lunges, farmer's carries, barbell rows, and lots, lots more that I either don't know, or can't think of right now.

Additionally, a barbell allows you to move a lot more weight than with dumbbells, kettlebells or any other piece of equipment. If you want to get stronger, you have to move more weight. Again, this is not the place to cheap out.

So, a barbell is a barbell is a barbell, right? Not really. I'll explain which ones I bought and why, then I'll cover other options.

I bought the Rogue 2.0 bar (men's bar, $255) for myself, and Rogue Bella 2.0 bar (women's bar, $215) for Aimee. The first thing you'll notice is that the Bella bar has a smaller diameter shaft (25 mm) than the Rogue 2.0 bar (28.5 mm), to better fit women's smaller hands. The sleeve is also shorter, presumably because women don't need quite as much space on which to load plates. Consequently, the women's bar weighs 15 kg (about 35 lb), vs. the men's bar's 20 kg (about 45 lb).

The Rogue 2.0 and Bella 2.0 bars are excellent generalist's bars. They're great for Olympic weightlifting, power lifting and high-repetition, fast workouts, like CrossFit. They're high quality bars with a tensile strength of 190,000 lb/square inch. I'm an aerospace project engineer, and Rogue's workmanship is just as good as ours. They're also made in Ohio. Despite all that, they're still affordable.

What makes these bars great for recreational generalists like Aimee and me?

First, the knurling. Knurling is the checkered pattern pressed into the steel bar. Its purpose is to give you better grip. Power lifting bars have more aggressive knurling for better grip in the deadlift. These bars have less aggressive knurling (like Olympic weightlifting bars), so they don't tear up your hands when performing fast lifts like the clean and the snatch, or fast, high-rep workouts like CrossFit.

These bars lack center knurling. Center knurling is great from back squats, because it helps keep the bar more securely on your back. It's terrible for front squats and cleans, because it tears up the skin on your throat and clavicles.

These bars are also flexible, like Olympic weightlifting bars. When you perform a clean, you want the bar to flex a little. You can see what I mean in this slow motion video.

Olympic weightlifting bars have bearings that allow the sleeves to spin when performing fast lifts. That's great, but bearings that last when subjected to that kind of abuse are very, very expensive, which is why even "affordable" Eleiko Olympic weightlifting bars cost $829 new.

The Rogue 2.0 and Bella 2.0 bars use oiled brass bushings instead of bearings. No, they don't spin as nicely as bearings. Yes, you do have to oil them every couple months to keep them spinning nicely. But, they keep costs down, and unless you have a shot at qualifying for the USAW American Open, you really don't need to spend the money on a high-end bearing bar.

What about other options for recreational lifters? I'll cover Rogue bars only, but you can find equivalent bars at Again Faster.

If you're a generalist, like Aimee and I are, you could go with the Rogue Ohio Bar. It's more expensive than the Rogue 2.0 bar, but you can get it in several different finishes that are more rust-resistant than the black zinc coating on the Rogue 2.0 bar. You can even get them finished in multiple Cerakote colors. My favorite (of course) is the Operator bar ($325), which comes in O.D. green, or desert tan. It's cool, but my garage is nice and dry, so I don't anticipate needing the more protective coating.

If you plan to stick with the slow lifts (squat, deadlift, bench press, overhead press), the Ohio Power Bar ($245 and up) is a better bet. It's a power lifting bar, so it has a larger diameter shaft (29 mm), and higher tensile strength (205,000 lb/square inch). That makes it much stiffer, which is better for the slow lifts. When performing squats, deadlifts and presses, you want the minimum flex possible. Additionally, the Ohio Power Bar has center knurling, which helps keep it on your back during the back squat, and all its knurling is more aggressive for better grip.

If you're willing to spend more, you could go with the Westside Power Bar ($325), which Rogue co-developed with Louie Simmons, head coach of Westside Barbell, which has produced more power lifting champions than any other gym. Honestly, I don't know what (if anything) makes it any better than the Ohio Power Bar, but if you want to spend the additional cash, go for it.

PLATES

HERE is where you can cheap out, if you want to.

I went with Rogue LB Training 2.0 bumper plates. They're color coded (55 lb, 45 lb, 35 lb and 25 lb), and made of high density rubber with a large steel disk in the middle.

I like them because you can drop them when performing the clean, clean and jerk, and the snatch.



Unfortunately, they're expensive - $883 for a 320 lb set. You can get cheaper bumper plates, but because they have smaller disks in the center, and they're made with lower density rubber, they don't last nearly as long.

But you don't have to spend nearly as much as I did.

Plates don't do a whole lot. They just rest on the bar's sleeves and provide resistance (weight). If you don't care about being able to drop the weights, go with cast iron plates, which are relatively inexpensive, and will last forever. In fact, you don't even have to buy them new. There's always someone on Craig's List or Facebook Marketplace selling plates they were too lazy to use.

Do not buy used bars. You never know how the previous owner abused his/her equipment, and bars do require maintenance. But there's very little one can do to damage cast iron plates.

Make sure you get some fractional plates. You're unlikely to find any used ones, because few people know about them. As your training progresses, you'll reach a point where you won't be able to increase the weight on the bar by five pounds at a time. With fractional plates, you'll be able to increase by 2 lb, 1 lb, or even 1/2 lb at a time, which is a lot better than zero. I got my fractional plates from Amazon, because they were cheaper, but I see that's no longer the case.

Fractional plates in 1 lb, 3/4 lb, 1/2 lb and 1/4 lb. Yes, my OSO collars are pink. Sue me.

Lastly, get some collars. Not everyone uses them, but they're important for safety. I prefer OSO collars. They're a lot more secure than the spring collars most gyms use, which means your plates
won't rattle, which means you won't have to stop and readjust your plates ten times per workout. They're a lot more expensive than spring collars, but unless you're running a commercial gym, you only need one pair.

Mini deadlift bar jack in action.

Bonus: a deadlift bar jack is unnecessary, but it sure is handy. It makes loading and unloading a bar on the floor a whole lot easier and faster. I bought the mini jack, because it's less expensive ($62.50) and takes up very little space. If you have the space and the budget, you might consider a full size jack, which is even more convenient, but also a lot more expensive ($165).

The jack makes changing plates a whole lot easier.

Again, I hope this was helpful. Please comment if you have questions and/or suggestions.

In part 3, we'll go over the second most important piece of garage gym equipment - the squat rack.

Garage Gym Part 1 - Overview
Garage Gym Part 3 - The Rack

Garage Gym Part 1 - Overview

No gym membership could ever be as convenient as rolling out of bed, dragging my lazy carcass into my garage, and - still in my PJs (I'm not exaggerating) - lifting weights. It's not for everyone. For some people, the gym is a big part of their social life. Or, they feel the need for the accountability of working out with a group of friends.

But, if - like me - you're a busy curmudgeon, you might benefit from the convenience of a home gym. Obviously, mine is not the only way to build a home gym. Far from it. Very far from it. But it's a good way, and it might give you some ideas that you can customize to your own situation.

THE THOUGHT PROCESS

I don't have a lot of room. I basically have most of one corner of the garage. Consequently, I decided to only use the most versatile equipment possible. Everything has multiple functions. I plan to add more equipment in the future, but - as sparse as this setup may look - I really don't need anything else, other than more plates (more weight). All the things I have in mind for phase 2 are nice-to-haves, not need-to-haves.

Equipment that has multiple uses also saves money.

THE SUPPLIERS

I bought most of my equipment from Rogue Fitness. Some of it I've had laying around for a while, like the bench, and the adjustable dumbbells in the corner. I don't even remember where I got those.

Rogue is one of my two favorite fitness equipment suppliers. The other is Again Faster Equipment. They're about equal in price and quality, but Rogue has gotten a lot bigger over the years, because they're the official equipment suppliers of the CrossFit Games. These days they sponsor strongman, Olympic weightlifting, and power lifting events.

You can't go wrong with either of them. The reason I chose Rogue is that I live a lot closer to Ohio than Florida, and that makes shipping from Rogue a lot less expensive. Either way, their equipment isn't cheap, but it isn't cheap, either. You get what you pay for.

In this case, Rogue's customer service was outstanding, their employees were knowledgeable and helpful, both on the phone and over email, and the delivery prompt. I have no complaints. I wish every company was that good.

The platform is made from plain, old 3/4" plywood from Home Depot and horse stall mats from Tractor Supply.

I made the bar hanger from scrap lumber I had laying around the garage.

The chalk bag hanging from the pull-up bar is for rock climbing. I bought it at a place called The Pathfinder in Manhattan, KS back when I was stationed at Fort Riley, but you can find one - and chalk - at REI or Amazon. You'll want chalk. Trust me.

The black-and-blue things are my knee sleeves, turned inside-out to dry. You may or may not want those.

In part 2, I'll cover the most important equipment in the gym, the bars and plates. Please commend with any questions or suggestions you may have.

Garage Gym Part 2 - Bars & Plates
Garage Gym Part 3 - The Rack

The ATF (GASP!) "Defunded"!

Apparently, some people are gullible enough to believe that the ATF has been "defunded" by the Republicans, and "decimated" by the NRA.

No... seriously.

Apparently, these same people are too lazy to type the words "ATF budget" into google, because that's exactly what I did, and this is what I found on the ATF's website.

Some people are allergic to facts, I guess.